A Hike to Remember: Our Adventures in the Great Smoky Mountains

Amid the vibrant tapestry of fall foliage in the Great Smoky Mountains, our backpacking journey on the Appalachian Trail unfolded. Our grand plan was to hike 40 miles on the Appalachian Trail from Fontana Dam to Newfound Gap. For me, it was an opportunity to discover if I could embrace the ruggedness of backpacking on the AT, much more “roughing it” than the glamping of Patagionia. For Daniel, who had already tackled almost 150 miles on the AT from Springer Mountain to the Nantahala Outdoor Center, it was a chance to get more miles on the trail. Little did we know that the mountains had some surprises in store for us.

In the days leading up to our adventure, careful preparation became our mantra. We checked the weather constantly and were very excited about the pleasant forecast predicted for our week: 70-degree days dropping to mid-50s at night, gradually warming even further as the week progressed. Our backpacks, Daniel’s 48-liter and my 40-liter, were carefully packed with the essentials for our five-night, six-day odyssey. Our lightweight Big Agnes one-person tent, two sleeping pads, bags, and pillows, along with a trusty mummy wrap, formed our cozy home away from home. Clothing-wise, we adopted a minimalist approach, with two layers each for shirts and pants, plus a spare set of each. Extra underwear and socks, along with camp shoes for a well-deserved break, also found their place in our packs.

Our sustenance for the trail was no less thoughtfully arranged. With no-cook meals as our go-to option, we meticulously calculated 2,500 calories per day, ensuring we’d have the energy required for our challenging trek. Notable among our food items were the cherished peanut M&Ms and the convenient Greenbelly meals. We kept the trip relatively budget-friendly, with the combined cost of parking and backcountry backpacking permits totaling just $95, allowing us to focus on the natural wonders that awaited us in the Great Smoky Mountains.

We left the comfort of our own home in Raleigh around noon on October 6th, driving to Bryson City for a convenient stay near the park and our last night in a warm bed before hitting the trail. We awoke early the next morning to drive the last half-hour to Fontana Dam and experienced a great sunrise as we laced up our hiking shoes. Our destination for Day One was Campsite 113, a modest 6.2-mile trek with nearly 2700 feet of elevation gain.

As we ventured deeper into the heart of the Smoky Mountains, we couldn’t resist adding some extra distance to our day to check out the Shuckstack Fire Tower and its panoramic views. Climbing the tower along our way to campsite 113, we were treated to a breathtaking 360-degree vista of the surrounding landscape, where the autumn colors painted the mountains with vibrant reds and oranges. The beauty of the Great Smoky Mountains in the fall from up high was truly an awe-inspiring sight.

We arrived at the campsite around 2pm and finished setting up around 3pm where we settled in early to snuggle and keep warm in the rapidly declining temperatures. 

On the morning of our second day on the Appalachian Trail, we left Campsite 113 with the temperatures being much colder than we originally planned. We packed up and hiked on, determined to spend as much time in nature as we could. Our destination for the day was Russell Field Shelter, an 8.3-mile hike with elevation gains of 2400 feet and descents totaling over 1700 feet.  On this challenging day, we encountered a group of curious turkeys and a meadow of wildflowers, giving light to the mostly cloudy day. 

We arrived at Russell Field Shelter around 5pm in the evening, just in time to set up our area of the shelter before a through-hiker and family hiked in to join us for the night. We settled in with our audiobook after visiting with the groups and learning about a nearby bear sighting at Mollies Ridge Shelter about a mile back towards Campsite 113.

After temperatures unexpectedly dropped below freezing overnight and the forecast for the next two nights dipped accordingly, our enthusiasm waned and we decided to bail out from the trail until favorable weather returned. We were faced with a decision to hike 15 miles back to the car along the section of the trail we had already completed or to try something new and hike into Tennessee and Cades Cove via the Russell Field Trail. 

We decided on the latter, which added an extra flare to our adventure since we weren’t exactly sure how we would ultimately get back to our car. The hike out was 6 miles, and along the way, we were treated to many stunning views, peaceful streams, and lovely conversations with a few couples out for a day hike. One of the couples became our unexpected saviors who generously offered us a hitchhike to Townsend, TN after they finished their hike.

Once in Townsend, we took some time to rest our tired bones and enjoy the peaceful side of the Smokies. We enjoyed two warm meals in Townsend that we would strongly recommend – Trailhead Steak and Trout and Peaceful Side Social. Both featured Farm to Table meals in a friendly atmosphere and local brews that helped nurse us back to health.

Fully rested after a night in a hotel bed, we rented a jeep from Wears Valley Jeep Rentals and decided to tackle “The Tail of the Dragon.” The winding, hairpin turns of this legendary road provided us with quite the adrenaline rush along with stunning views along the National Park road and the Foothills Parkway; however, the nonstop curves are not for the faint of heart or the weak of stomach. In the end, we were happy to make it back to Fontana Dam to retrieve our car. For our return journey, we took a less perilous road, Daniel in the bright yellow jeep following me in our Subaru.

We started out early to get in one additional hike before my parents joined us later in the evening. We drove from Townsend to the Indian Gap Road Parking before dawn to catch a stunning sunrise before setting out to Clingmans Dome. With only water and snacks in our significantly lightened packs, this trip up the mountain seemed like a breeze, as much as a 9.3-mile hike with over 2700 feet of elevation gain and 2300 feet of descent can! Spectacular views from the highest point in the park were our reward for this extra day of hiking. Once we had our fill of mountain air, we decided to descend back to our car via the road and had a lovely pair of gentlemen offer to take us back to our car. After our dropoff, we headed to Gatlinburg to grab some coffee at Bloom and Berry Coffee House and groceries before heading to our next home away from home.  

The rest of the week was all about taking it easy and enjoying the Great Smoky Mountains with Mike and Darlene. We opted for driving tours and explored the beauty of Cades Cove and Roaring Fork Motor Trail and even checked out the Craftsmen’s Fair. And what’s the Smoky Mountains without wildlife encounters? We crossed paths with numerous bears, including one at our Airbnb, several along the Roaring Fork Motor Trail, and even one at The All-New Ski Mountain Pizza during lunch. 

Our trip to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was filled with unexpected twists and turns, but it made for an adventure we’ll never forget. While our original plan didn’t go as expected, we found beauty, laughter, and unique experiences at every corner of the Smoky Mountains. We added another 21 miles to our AT totals and had some bear sightings that we will remember for years to come. So, whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just looking for a memorable getaway, the Great Smoky Mountains have something for everyone—just be prepared for a few surprises along the way!